When Kelly Hogaboom asked me to test sew a garment for her Tea & Crumpet Dress sew along, I jumped at the chance. I had several challenges along the way, but ultimately, am super pleased with the results of the dress. I will definitely be making it again!

Dedicated to my 2016 goal of sketching each make, below are the sketches I did for Tea & Crumpet version 3. My paper and pen didn't set well with one another so my dots smeared, but I kind of like the effect.

This is the Bootstrap Fashion illustration for the dress pattern I made. 

Before I got started, I spent quite a bit of time measuring the pattern, talking with bootstrap and Kelly. Something was off and not quite right. I just couldn't get the hip measurment to be right.  Turns out, there are 2, yes TWO, back panels, not one. There you go, another 7 inches! Voila, it would fit around my hips. 

When inserting my measurements, I chose the following adjustments: 

• Full Bust 
• Larger Upper Arm Fullness
• Belly Protrusion C
• Narrow Shoulders
• Fitted Garment Fit
• Short Neck Length

For many, this is a no-no. I made my muslin in a woven and my final in a non-recovering knit. For me, I knew I could make it work. 

In looking at how this fits

• Full bust was a GREAT choice.
  
• Large Upper Arm Fullness resulted in bra showing and a little gaping around the side seams. I ended up taking in a dart at the side seams and it worked out perfectly! 
  
• Belly Protrusion C is too much for my taste. I don't care for how it hangs in the front there. I can tell by how it hangs that there is a void space. It hangs nicely, but wrinkles and bothers me when I sit or walk. Personal preference. I'd try B in the next version. Though the dart made for the gaping at the armhole actually helped fix some of the excess at the belly.
  
• In the "fitted" version, I'm really glad I didn't choose any larger amount of ease like semi-fitted. 
• Neck length didn't really matter. 

I chose this beautiful polka dot cotton knit from Marcy Tilton that I have in my stash from last year.  It has less stretch than I anticipated when I ordered. So, when this Tea & Crumpet dress came along in a drapey woven, I knew it would be the perfect in-between. 

I used the awesome marking pen I got from Monica at Sew Expo to mark my darts. Gosh that makes it super easy to work with!

Just look at how perfectly I was able to line up the back darts and back princess seams of the skirt! So delightful!  Can I tell you how amazingly wonderful it was to tape the pattern together, then get right to sewing? Really very minimal alterations. This has really been inspiring to get back to more sewing!

I cut out the fitted version with seam allowances.  I ended up with the following further alterations:

• Center back at a 1/2" seam allowance (instead of the 3/8" allowed)
• Side seams at 1" seam allowance (instead of 3/8" allowed)

This resulted in 1.5" negative ease. from the actual pattern ease for a woven fabric. Perfect for this particular fabric which doesn't really have any recovery.

And, sometimes I get reminded to take a pause and love on my fur babies. Though, it's a bit maddening when this one's tail wafts in and out of my serger threads at the top of the cones! Grr!  She just wants attention though.  

Once I finally read the manual for my serger and learned the "right" way to thread it, it worked like a dream. See that garbage mess on the right? Yeah, that's because I didn't thread the needles last. When in doubt, read the damn manual. 

Hmm... I could leave it raw at the edge... but why?

I chose a finish with 2 needles of plain poly thread and the upper and lower looper filled with wooly nylon. This was used on both the hem and the sleeves. If you choose to do this, wait until you grade and topstitch all skirt seams. 

I finished the dress just in time to wear it for Easter. When I mean just in time, I do mean that. Like 30 min before. It was great! I got to sew on Easter and wear my dress. 

My brother was nice enough to take my photos. He also was super silly and gave me all sorts of strange commands for posing. It was fun!

Here's the dress with a fitted cardigan and a triangle scarf. I love the look. Surprising because I'm not really a white fabric kind of person.

Did I tell you how happy I am with the dress?

Just LOOK at how smooth that back is! Narry a wrinkle that is out of place dragging hither to thither. 

The bust darts might be a titch too high, but they work out just right. Though, with the facing, my neckline appears to have stretched out either during sewing or ... ? Minor in the grand scheme. 

​I've since invested in 4 or 5 other bootstrap patterns. I'm learning so much about my own body and patterns that fit me. Plus, I get to just dig right in and make some things that will more than likely fit straight away. It's unheard of for me to not have to make significant alterations to a pattern before starting. Usually that part of the process seems to take ages or multiple versions. So color me tickled pink about all things bootstrap! I'm like super excited and keep dreaming of making the Vado Jeans and this babydoll top is about 1/2 way sewn.

Sew Expo is a large sewing conference / event that happens in February/March of each year in Puyallup. It was founded & by the same women who first taught me to sew. Though, it hasn't been until the last 10 years that I've made attending a regular thing for me. I always learn something, meet someone inspiring, and find great deals and even better quality notions, tools, and fabrics.  It's a wonderful show that I highly recommend. Honestly, the classes and connections made there are worth the price of admission to each one. 

This year, I signed up for 3 classes (1-needle = 1 hour) or seminars. I tried to get into Monica's camisole class, but it was booked up solid for both days it was offered. I ended up taking 2 classes from Lorraine Henry (why did I wait this long to study with her?!?) and one class from Pati Palmer. 

Welcome to the showplex. This is one of the 2 main buildings where the classes and vendors are hosted. It's always a SEA of people and each booth is a delight for the eyes. Walking up to the showplex, I was reminded of the many, many, many shows where my mom and I have been vendors - all the time setting up, standing around talking with people, needing to be "on" all the time, then tearing down. I have a lot of compassion for all the vendors. It's VERY hard work to do a show for a couple days, let alone 4 days of Sew Expo. 

Pacific Fabrics always has a stellar booth. This year they has someone demonstrating some quilting blocks. They bring a large selection of swimwear knits (woo hoo!) and quilting cottons. 

I took Lorraine Henry's Swivel our Seams SOS class which was all about using the seam method of pattern alteration. Here she's demonstrating the slash and spread method. Sitting in her classes was a breath of fresh air. Oh my goodness is she a born teacher! She knows how to pause to allow students to process. She asks questions of students to teach them to think - for those moments when she is not there.  She's extremely knowledgable. And, she is fun, delightful and funny in her approach. What a doll. I'd take her classes any day!

Here's a lovely photo of Lorraine in her booth. She invited people over to ask questions and learn more.  Her SOS class was basically Elizabeth L. Liechty's book come to life! How utterly exciting for me, because I've been pouring over that book.  And Lorraine had copies in her booth of the 3rd edition, hot of the press, for sale. 

I also took a class from Pati Palmer, another amazingly talented, patient and knowledgable teacher, on using one pattern for both knits and wovens. It was quite interesting and chock full of useful details that I'm still processing and absorbing. I enjoyed Pati's class immensely. 

I stopped by the Palmer/Pletsch booth to see if I could get a photo with her and she said, "Oh, are we going to do a selfie?" That just tickled my heart and got me giggling. There was so much excitement and pure joy in her question that I could hardly hold my phone steady!

No trip to expo is complete without taking in Bravo Bella. This year, Monica added swimsuit kits and some wonderful patterns! 

One entire side of her booth is devoted to bra kits. Plus, she hand-dyes all the colors you see.  I love the kits I have from her. 

The other side of her booth was filled with fun ITY knits for panties, mock-ups of lace panties and the newest styles of her latest panty pattern. 

  

If you turned with your back to Bravo Bella, you looked straight into the Tilton's booth. Hello pretty's, come to mama. The Tilton sisters always pick the best fabrics in the highest qualities. They have excellent taste!  I had enough in my budget this year to purchase 2 remnants. I love choosing to spend my money on a quality piece of fabric from the Tilton's. 

The back of this Katherine Tilton coat caught my eye. What a gorgeous seamline!

Below are 2 laces I picked up from the Bravo Bella booth. As you can tell, these are 8" laces. Perfect for making Jalie 2568 Brazilian Tanga panties in my size!  I got to work on making these up right after I got home from the show. 

Day 1 was excellent. Inspiring, fulfilling, and educational. 

I was tickled that I finished one pair of the Jalie 2568 tanga panties in time to bring them to show Monica. I thought she and any other customers passing by might enjoy seeing a finished use of the laces she was selling in her booth. Plus, I got to show her the black lace pair I made earlier this month from lace I had ordered from her and the blue satin panties I made using the satin I also ordered from her. I was super impressed with how kind Monica was. She interacts with so many people while teaching several classes at the show, plus helping people in her booth. It's a lot to take on, not to mention all the fun of having and maintaining a personal life and family on top of it! She makes it look easy. Though I hope she gets plenty of rest after this!

Monica also had time to look at some photos I had posted to one of the Bra Making forums asking for help on fitting her pattern, Bravo Bella 2. I made sure to go back during a time when it was a little slower. She was infinitely helpful on many accounts. She drew photos, swapped bras, discussed how fit worked and didn't work and helped me find ways to alter that would keep things as simple as possible without having to re-draft every piece. I'm very grateful! I even spent time over the weekend pondering her insights, drawings and cut out a new BB2 making it #3. 

I gave it the 1 day test (since I only purchased 2 tickets to enter), and decided to purchase this swimsuit kit from Monica. She had several awesome prints, but this felt the most like me and received thumbs up from the other ladies working in Monica's booth.

I also decided to invest in more lace because the quality and price are right on! 

I also attended Lorraine Henry's 3-crotch figure class about fitting and altering where the body hinges. Wow, there were so many people in class who were very engaged. She's such a wonderful teacher! She asked for questions before we got started and I piped up and asked about altering for Swayback. She said, "dress, blouse, or pants?" Wow... all 3 really, but I chose dress.  She proceeded to give us the alterations for each one! Dang if half the room didn't ooo, ah, oh, and aha!  Boy was that a great question. Then a woman behind me leaned over and whispered that she took Lorraine's neckline class and she went into swayback in great detail. Note to self! Take that class!

One of the most useful tips Lorraine gave was the L before W rule. Alter lengths before altering widths on patterns. I invested in her pamphlet plus her "measuring made easy" packet - that tape measure with a zero point is worth the money! I also invested in her long crotch curve ruler. Mine doesn't reach my waist, so it's rather useless. Thanks for solving that problem, Lorraine!

I don't recall the name of this booth, but the quilting artist's work was divine! She sells kits so you can make your own. They are such a delight!

Silk ribbons are so rich and colorful. Who would love to have this in their studio, just to be inspired by the rainbow of colors?!

I enjoyed spending the afternoon of day 2 wandering with my mom, getting inspired and enjoying conversation. She has fostered my sewing and encouraged me for many years. It's wonderful to spend time sharing with her as we both have spent many hours sewing lots of clothing. Though today, she works with wee sized items creating wearable art, more than creating garments. Nonetheless, there was something for each of us to enjoy. 

I'm grateful for all the help, knowledge, beautiful fabrics, and inspiration. Thanks to each and every person for making the 2016 show such a delight. May fortune favor you.