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Bootstrap Fashion Woven Tank Top #45419

9/28/2016

I had really high hopes for the Bootstrap Fashion #45419 tank top (my affiliate link). In many ways, it was really enjoyable to sew. In other ways, I found myself resisting all those facings!

Notice the wrinkles on the model around the midriff / just below the bust. Remember this for later when you see me wearing the finished top.

Why resist the facings? I mean isn't this linen just glorious? It's a remnant from Josephine's Dry Goods in Portland (before the current owners bought it)

I think this remnant of even firmer linen came from Pacific Fabrics or it too may have been from Josephine's too. They've been in my stash for eons! It was high time I used them. It had been so long, that I no longer coveted them, nor feared I'd ruin the fabric if I tried to make something from it. Wow, that sounds like I fear my own shadow. I don't think I do... but there's an opportunity to re-frame my language and feelings around fabric!

Because I realized AFTER I had all this cut out, that I had no instructions. None. Like, I forgot to even check to see if I got them from Bootstrap! Whoops! So, I quickly emailed Yuliya. She and her team said they were still working on the instructions but would look into them right away. Within a day or so, I had the instructions in hand. They were quite fast! I was very grateful.

And then came the time to visualize the process of assembly. You see, there are NO photos. NO diagrams. The only construction instructions you receive are a list of steps. Often, multiple steps are contained in one bullet or numbered item. This one was a bit tricky to visualize since I really hadn't made a shirt with this many interconnecting facings.

I actually spent a week or so plotting out the process, playing with the pieces and visualizing in my head how things might work or might fail.

I finally got it all sewn up and put it on. Oh sad.

The linen I chose for facings, which matched the brown so perfectly, actually is so very firm that it won't lay down. And then, I had the bright idea to interface it! Silly me.

My mom promptly advised me how gigantic the linen rollers are that beat the crap out (tech term, ya know!) of the linen fiber as they process it to make fabric. She said, "it just needs to be hammered and beat up some more and it will probably lay down."

As you can tell, I'm not all that excited about this top. And that neck phooey is wacko. It feels weird on too! It kind of stands up. Great for a shirt collar, not so great for a neckline which lays against the body.

Between the two photos, notice how I have draglines at the bust. Those same draglines were ever so slightly apparent on the model I made note of above. Interesting to see it show up on me too, isn't it! And the bust darts are a bit off from my perspective. They seem to wrap above the breast instead of point at the bust point. Maybe this pattern is better to choose a "low bust" rather than "average" for my body?

So the other BIG REVEAL is that well, this shirt is WAY too low cut for me. Like so low, you can see my bra. And this bra is not a full coverage bra. It's a pretty low cut bra to begin with.

Mom & I were messing around with the idea of putting a button on the top to pull it in. Watch the video to see more. A button could be very fun!

My Dad actually had a really great idea too. He suggested a panel in the V opening that was lighter or of contrast that simply covered up the space. Nice idea, Thanks Dad!

It's thanks to both my parents that I am a bit more modest of a dresser. After a bit of life experience, I'm grateful that I prefer to leave more to the imagination at times. Though, the dance floor and dance costumes are my exception to that rule.

If you look at the photo below, you'll notice it qualifies for the TOENAIL check. If I can look down while standing or bending and either you or I can see my toenails, it FAILS. And this one FAILS BIG TIME! Like, crap man. I can see my bra, belly, toes and the CAT! Ha ha ha ha ha ha!

OMG, that's scary. Don't look. TOO MUCH!

This is one of the first Bootstrap tops that I've ever had an issue on fit. Really! Of everything else, they all fit quite well. Though, everything else I've chosen does have a lot more seams or darts and leans more toward princess seaming which is excellent for adapting flat fabric to curved bodies. This shirt is pretty straight. There aren't even back darts. On a different shaped body with similar dimensions... say someone who had a flatter bum, but was the same hip measurement... this might look way more stunning.

On my body, it's just kind of bleah. Meh. Not anything to write home about.

When I wear straight shirts, like this, that cascade straight down from my bust and do not take into account my waist, they simply make my body look wider than it really is. I am wider at my hips than my bust by at least 5-7 inches. Instead of the eye travelling from a smallish bust to a wider hipline and it appearing to be flattering, it just looks fairly wide all the way. I've occasionally dreamt of all those flowy, boxy, straight shirts that show up on so many of you artsy sewing gals and those you see in Japanese Sewing books. But you know what? That's just not me. It's not flattering and I feel frumpy. I'd much rather wear a piece that gathers at the waist and flows a little elsewhere or that travels down my curves accentuating along the way.

You see, even my parents kitty agrees! She says, "I got better things to do than look at your shirt, like bugz to chase, missy!"

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Jalie 3245 Racerback Tank Top

9/19/2016

Comments

My wardrobe needs a good basic tank top for many different purposes. The main driver in creating several versions of this is because I needed several tops for dance practice wear. Since my stash is more than the space I have available, I was not going to shop for any clothing, but rather make one or two or three. Jalie 3245 is a good solid design that doesn't require much fabric, is modest and flattering.

Version 1

Earlier this year, I made this version in aqua cotton thin, thin, thin single knit from Girl Charlee. It's bound in the same fabric with nothing between the edge and the binding. Only the fabric itself. It has enough recovery that it can self support without stretching out.

Version 2

Spurred by dancewear needs, I grabbed some nylon poly lycra performance knit (more like a super thin wicking shirt and less like swimwear) I picked up at Joann's of all places. I really like this fabric a lot! Except, I get too hot due to the poly. That always elevates my body temperature and makes me sweat. So far, no funny smell from the non-natural fiber against my skin.

If you look closely, I have a center back seam. I didn't have enough fabric to cut it on the fold, so I added 1/4" to the fold edge and stitched together, then topstitched the seam down for security. It reminds me of back leg seams on nylons. This version could have used a small adjustment for swayback. All in all, though I love it so much.

Again, only bound the edge with self same fabric. No add ins.

Version 3

Here we have version 3. This is in a drapey rayon like poly cotton lycra. I think I got it at Pacific Fabrics ages ago. It's been percolating in my stash and I finally felt comfortable enough that I wouldn't waste the fabric that I could sew with it. I'm glad I did! I love the way this feels on. Super comfy.

For the neckband and armhole edges, I ...

stitched the binding to right side to fronts
inserted & stitched down clear elastic along the stitched edge
Folded the binding to the wrong side and stitched down.

This gave the perfect amount of body and recovery to the high stress openings without restriction of movement or stretching out with wear.

For the hem, I just turned and stitched 3/8". Below left is the "fashion side" of the hem. Below right is the "wrong side" of the hem. Given that it's a curved hem. it does have a little of the bumpiness I see in a bias hem from time to time. Though, it doesn't look like that when I wear it. At least, it's so minor and camouflaged by the black that no one but me or some master seamstress would notice.

Following the Jalie instructions, I bound the edges. It's a super great technique. But for some reason, I'm not so even or exacting when I turn a binding. I end up with wonky edges. Sure I could cut it, but I've had too many close calls and cutting holes even using my duckbill scissors that I prefer to turn it to the back instead of the front. So the black tank was a great learning experience for me.

Contained in this binding, both neck & arm, is clear elastic. Gave just enough body and wasn't restricting whatsoever.

It's a dust collector. Must keep the lint roller handy.

To finish the binding, I simply used a tiny zig zag. I

Version 4

Remember when I posted this to instagram? Well, it too was a Jalie 3245! This time I used an extremely drapey rayon knit that is ribbed. That means clingy and curve hugging. It also meant it was very likely to stretch out and not recover well, more so than any other previously used fabric.

Before I even began to stitch, I visited Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Hill in Seattle to pick up bias fusible tape. Glory be! Thank goodness they sell it. They're the only game in town. Plus, it made binding the armholes or stitching a piece of cake! However, I used it in the hem and it does not allow any further stretch. At. All. So I'm limited by the dimensions of the bound hem. Not bad and it's not restricting movement, but I don't like it when one part of my garment stops stretching while the rest continues. It's like they fight one another. Not cool.

This version is super comfy. However, I do not prefer to reveal this many curves in the back to the average human who sees me. I will wear it under a sweater or jacket as I did with the one in my hand below left.

The striped binding was a bit of poor recovering knit that I interfaced and held onto for ages. It was perfect for this and I couldn't lose by using something that had just sat around for ages. I could only learn from the experience. Works better than expected even though it doesn't have much stretch, that too doesn't seem to affect my movement.

Version 5

I just finished version 5 of this tank. I had this boxy Eileen Fisher top in a linen knit that I feel frumpy and wide in. Time to modify it to fit the curves.

Pattern shape includes budding kimono sleeve, bust dart and lower side seams.

Copy the shirt neckline so I can adapt it to the Jalie 3245

Amount of hem raising.

Accommodating Jalie 3245, Hem of Eileen Fisher and a Cacique ribbed tank from Nordstrom that fits decently.

Also accommodating a Raglan T-shirt I made from a Bootstrap pattern. Can you see how my patterns become total mash-ups of 3-7 patterns?

Ok, good! It fits and allows for seam allowance!

She winds around, plops herself down and generally wants all my attention when sewing. So I cuddle, pet, hold and love on her. Isn't that look hilarious? I put her down very quickly after I see this look. When she's done, she's done! I hear ya kitty!

As with version 3, I put clear elastic in the arm and neck bands since this linen knit doesn't have a whole lot of recovery. Boy is it nice in version 3.

This is what it looks like stitched in before turning the binding to the wrong side.

The original neckline and neckband are still on the shirt. The armband I added is what you see me pointing at. Notice how it puckers a little with the triple stitch zig zag on the linen knit? Interesting effect. Looks more like I hand stitched it. With this binding, I turned to the wrong side. Basically I started the Jalie process in reverse.

I thought this technique would be great in the hem. However, I caution you... add a little extra just in case. I somehow ended up with less elastic than my actual hem and it's a little puckered. I think I'm onto something here, because the clear elastic allows for stretch in the hem and isn't as restrictive as the fusible bias. Anyone else have a favorite technique for hems in non-recovering knits?

"Fashion side" above and "wrong side" below. Looks pretty amazing and smooth doesn't it? Feeling pretty good about my skills!

And then I see what I look like wearing it. Not bad, but kind of ugh.

The photo on the left shows how the hem is smaller than my hips.
The photo on the right is the shirt pulled all the way straight.

Hmm... Not feeling this. It's looking more like Pajamas!

Notice how the tighter hem pulls up and ruffles all the fabric on my bum shelf. Oh, this is not a good look, Henry. Not a good look. I believe this will be relegated to the Pajama pile. It's super comfy even if it isn't so flattering. Besides, I'm not really so into the orange color. It kind of washes me out.

I'm most grateful for the learning and experimenting. When I began this last version, knowing I was upcycling an Eileen Fisher shirt, I figured I couldn't go wrong. I was never going to wear the other version, plus I'd learn from the fabric how it likes to be treated!

All in all, I'd still vote for clear elastic, just give a little more room, don't go for negative ease. If anything, go for exact or a little extra. Try out a sample and see how it behaves.