Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Bootstrap Fashion A-Line Skirt with Inserted Welt Pockets in Linen

7/15/2016

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Remember this pretty pale lavender linen skirt I wore with my Asymmetrical Top and the Side Ruffle Top?
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I created it by splitting this full dress pattern into a skirt only. More on the top half later!
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Notice the pouch pockets in front? Those are welt pockets, inserted into flat fabric, not into the seams. 
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Doesn't that a-line skirt fit smoothly and the linen hang beautifully? 
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And here we reach the point where you can see that this skirt was designed to be integrated into a dress top. If it were, the top of the skirt wouldn't fall down quite so much. There's a wee bit too much ease at the belly. And then, when I walk, the pockets pooch out like a kangaroo pocket. 
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Hello my name is Kanga. No, I do not have my own little roo. 
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Despite all that, I still think it's flattering and I'll wear it. 
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Would you LOOK at that zipper?! That was nearly the last thing I inserted. Pockets first, facing next to last, zipper, then hem. Stellar insertion of a zipper if I do say so myself. I'm quite pleased.  

For vertical placement of the zipper, I followed some zipper insertion instructions from the 2014 Sew News magazine where Jan Bones was featured.  That worked quite well. No need for a hook and eye on this zipper. 
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The color of the linen above looks more blue-purple in the late dusk light.  But when I was sewing, it reminded me of this beautiful cluster of orchids I photographed at a local greenhouse. 
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There are absolutely minimal instructions on any bootstrap pattern. I think it said something to the effect of "insert the welt pockets" with maybe a little more. This is something to consider with all Bootstrap Fashion patterns - have a source for alternate instructions, just in case. For me, I was able to search "insert welt pockets" and found these tutorials helpful, though none exactly fit my situation, so I used bits and pieces from each.

Thread Theory Welt Pocket Tutorial

Seamwork Mag, Conquering the Welt (scroll about half way down and you'll see the order of placement diagrams which are so fantastic)! Thank you SO much David Page Coffin!

This video from Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns really helped make welt pockets an easy concept for me. Once I watched it, I realized that I could easily tackle a welt pocket or even another tailored jacket. Peggy really is a great teacher. She thinks about the critical details that improve a process, simplify it and allow us to understand without it taking forever!
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I thought you'd get a kick out of seeing the order of placement of the pockets. Here is 1 pocket (starting with placing all the pieces on the RIGHT side or FASHION side of the garment. This will be the right front pocket from the wearer's perspective.
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Nifty, eh?

Now for the dreaded zipper. Though, this turned out to be super easy!

As per my friend Kelly Hogaboom and the 2014 Sew News Mag, I inserted some interfacing to reinforce the zipper area and minimize the potential for puckering. 

So many people talk of hand basting in zippers. While I have done a couple hand-picked zippers (that means sewing the entire thing in by hand), I just don't care to hand sew very much. I feel like I go from super speedy hummingbird to bumblebee mode. 

What can I do? I want this zipper to be perfectly aligned without having to fuss with pins. I KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!  505 Temporary Spray Adhesive!
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YES!!!!!!!!!!!! Here it is in all it's flocked looking glory.

​Like my seam tape on the seams? This linen began to fray and I knew seam tape was the only way to ensure I had the garment longer than the first wearing. 
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"Look! It hangy!"  Or rather, "Look ma, no pins!"
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The zipper head is well above the waist seam. See how it pokes out a bit at the beginning, but is tucked up a little into the facings? Yeah, I'm awesome. This was awesome. I am stoked. This was a total confidence builder. I just kept going, trying, going, free of fear, knowing that things may or may not work out, but that would totally be ok! And look! It is!
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At some point later, I may insert an elastic around the waistband to cinch it up a bit and get the pockets a little higher on my body. For now, it's super wearable and will definitely fit my "Hawaiian Dream Vacation" wardrobe!  I feel like such a surfer girl when I wear it. 
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now