Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Bootstrap Fashion Bias Trim Princess Seamed Sleeveless Top #41951

8/12/2016

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Oh lord, the moment I saw this bootstrap princess seamed bias trim top #41951 I knew I had to make it. But what fabric to use? 

I hunted and hunted. Scoured my extensive stash, yet could find no satin. Nothing with a slightly heavy body other than linen and denim. Nah... not really my thing for a high backed neck top. You see, I have an average, but shorter neck. I like freedom of movement and no fabric getting in my way at the back of my neck.  Then, I remembered trying to pattern match some seahorse print fabric by Tula Pink. It was a B*tch to match in garments. Was I ready to pattern match again? Why not, I'd already let it sit half cut for a couple years. It couldn't waste it nor ruin it more. 
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​I knew that I wanted to pair the orange-y coral with a bright royal purple (nearly blue) that would accent the orange.  

Orange and purple are complimentary colors.

​On the color wheel Orange is secondary and Blue-Violet is tertiary. So they help each other out. 
Along the way, I felt like the single bias neckline trim wouldn't be drown in all the coral color and wouldn't really stand out well. So, I made up my own bias trim for the armscye. I quite like it!  After stitching each seam, I also serged the raw edges.  That makes the Buddha happy too you know. ;) 
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I have quite enjoyed having and using this little measuring gauge I bought from Bravo Bella. It's most handy on hems. 
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Notice the pattern matching along the horizontal plane? That's perpendicular to the adjoining seam you see above. Damn I am good. How did I do it? By matching up the pattern of the print at the hemline on a cut piece. I used that one piece for each and every alignment before I cut. Worked like a charm!
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I like having my paper tape double to check the way the garment will look on my body along the way. I want things to be pleasing to the eye. This was the stage I chose to add in the bias strips on the armscyes.
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Look at that pattern matching! BAM!  Who's the rockstar?! ME!

​Oh, I should mention, this is 4 pieces with 3 seams in the photo below.
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Here I am, wearing the finished piece. Notice how the pattern matching is so critical even from a distance? A little bit of a jog and it would create disharmony in the piece. 
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The bias strip is lovely, though it kind of gets in my way. I don't have a terribly long neck, but I like freedom of motion. I found myself folding the bias strip to slim down the collar portion.
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Once I mastered the pattern matching, this thing sewed together like a dream. The ONLY issue was the space alotted for the bias strip attaching to the sides wasn't low enough. The pattern is a bit of a puzzle at that junction between upper, lower front side, bias strip and side seam to the back side. It all has to fit together. So, to adapt and keep pressing on, I just took a quick tuck. I think it adds to the flare and it definitely keeps the bias strip out of my range of arm motion.
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Isn't that fascinating how the pattern appears to arc in the back? I like how the bias armscye strips show up when my hair is down and the bias strip collar isn't visible. 
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This top is totally unlined and made solely of quilting cotton. I really like it and could see making another for a nice summer top.  Though, I might
  • lower the neckline in the front a little
  • taper the bias strip
  • or lower that bias/front/back side junction in order to allow for the full height of the bias strip. 

​What do you think of it?  Would you have done something different with the bias junction?
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now