Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
  • Home
  • Blog
  • Art
    • Artwork
  • Sewing

Lifted, Gifted, Higher: Studying Fit Using My Fav RTW Bra

10/22/2014

Comments

 
"When you find a [bra] that fits, buy lots of them. 
Buy one for every day of the week."
I used to think that tidbit of wisdom was silly. Until I realized that there were long periods of time between my shopping and when I went to buy the same thing again... dun, dun, dun... it was gone, never to be made again.  The style would change, the fabrics, whatever. Stores just do not stock basics anymore. Probably ties back into FCF.

Well, I followed that advice when I purchased bras a couple years ago.  Lane Bryant has been a good source for bras, but they can be a hit & miss. Luckily, I found a big hit. They sell this adorable and sexy embroidered French full coverage bra.  It has a little lace, a little padding, lovely lift, cute fabrics, lace on the straps.  I bought a 5 bras, in neutrals and bright colors with polka dots, with color coordinating underwear. Love those all my pieces!  

For the first time in ages, I have a flattering bust that is the teensy-ist bit pointy and lifted and gives such nice definition rather than being smooshed and flattened into a cup shape that is different than my needs. If you're in the market for a new bra and are a plus size with a bust over DD, I highly recommend you try Lane Bryant.  

I even wear these bras hiking. They're way more comfortable than most sports bras because I don't end up with a headache!  Mine are beginning to wear out. SO SAD!  

After 2 bra "failures"  I mean learning experiences, I finally realized that I was better off studying what already fits.  I've done this with my T-shirts and pants.  Why not bras? Silly me. It would have been wise to start there.   

I spent time studying one of these French Cacique bras. I'm really fascinated by the RTW construction vs. construction in the bra patterns I'm using. Some techniques  align, others vary.  Both are good. It will be fun to try & adopt some of the RTW techniques. 


For reference, Cacique and Lane Bryant size this bra as a 40DDD.

Bra Exterior

On the 2 bras I've made to date, the bridge is always made of power stretch. A detail I find both pretty and interesting is the black lace over a lining fabric (likely tricot or simplex. It has absolutely no stretch and if a tricot, is likely a 15 denier.).  I've seen this lining used in sports bras, swimsuits, and also the Cacique bra I'm showing you here. The bra fits so comfortably, even with the bridge against my skin all day, I don't even notice that it's a poly material. There's no chaffing.

I like the look of the black lace bridge aligning with the black lace top of cup. It is a pseudo butterfly, similar to a design Beverly Johnson teaches. I really like that lace stops right under the lower cup seam. I think this brings the eye in toward the center of the body, giving the illusion that you are narrower.  Illusions and where the eye travels are very important in our clothing and art. Use them to your advantage and you can excite your viewer, leading them to where you want them to look.
Picture
This bra has 2 pieces for the cup. I find it interesting that the center front cup pieces are so much smaller than the side cup pieces. This makes sense considering the larger cup size.  But I also didn't instinctually realize how close the apex are.  My body is shaped a little differently.  So when it is worn, my natural bust point is turned in by the shape of this bra. Beverly Johnson talks about this in her 2nd book. 
Picture
One of my favorite details is the boning inserted into the seam between the cradle and the side band. On a fuller figure, this is a wonderfully comfortable added support. Let's put it this way, it's so comfortable, I didn't even know that I was wearing boning until I began to analyze the bra. I don't have this on bras I've made and will definitely look into adding it.  

From feel and sound, it appears to be plastic boning. Plastic allows for conforming to the body, rather than poking like metal can often do. Though, because the material properties of plastic allow it to move and conform with body heat and wear, that also means it will lose it's original supportive shape. Depending on the application that can be a win or a fail. When the bra is worn on my body, these bow out. They return straight when off my body.  
Picture
Fortunately, a plastic was used for the boning that has a yield strength which is reached at a temperature higher than body temp. I would hope that plastic boning manufacturers would offer a product made of plastic with a significantly higher yield point (that's the point of no return when a material changes shape permanently, or deforms, and never returns to it's original shape), not just a little bit higher, such that the boning would retain it's shape regardless of how hot your body gets.  

Every temperature point on the curve before the yield strength is in the "elastic range" which is where the material can return again to it's original shape.  Though, it would also be nice to have a plastic that would slightly form to your body with heat for certain other applications.  
Picture
Typical stress vs. strain diagram with the various stages of deformation. Source: Wikipedia. Click picture for link.
Ok, had enough Mechanics of Materials class yet?  


It's really nice to make connections between my Mechanical Engineering background and sewing.  Can you also see why I would be fascinated to learn about the materials and construction in high-tech gear?  I'd love to visit the labs and meet the scientists and fashion designers at places such as REI, Nike, North Face, Patagonia, and K2. If you know of anyone there who'd be willing to offer a tour or an informational interview within the tech gear industry, please let me know!

Back to BRAS!

I adore the look of the lace stitched to the front straps. It feels so chic, so... French. This is only stitched onto firm, non-stretch strap material. The back strap is stretchy to allow flexibility and not pull down on your shoulders all day. If it were firm, there is a higher chance of headache due to the amount of weight on your shoulder and neck muscles. 
Picture
I've owned this bra for 2 years. I find it interesting that there is a little pilling of the lace. That tells me that it's a medium to low a quality lace.  The level of quality also implies that it has a higher count of poly and may not have been manufactured for last-ability (long-term, full life focused) , but rather to be quickly and efficiently made (short term, immediate need filled to make a sale).  The pilling is minimal and hardly noticeable, unless you're getting real close. And if you are, well, you'd have to be a pretty special guy. ;) 

The lace is one thing that sold me on buying these bras. First it gave me a nice lifted and rather pointy shape (something I haven't had).  Second, with the lace it felt so sheer and sexy and vulnerably exposed.  I'd always worn molded bras before this. When I tried these bras on, I was worried about showing "birthday cake candles" as my friend Joel calls them, when cold. But, fortunately, no one has sung happy birthday to me on a cold non-birthday day. 
Picture

Bra Interior / Lining

Switching to the inside of the bra, the first thing that caught my eye were how smooth the elastics all were. None appear to be stretched. The powerstretch is smooth (the wrinkles seen are due stretching from wear). I really, really like that. 

The puckering from attaching a shorter elastic to a longer piece of powerstretch is a totally fine application.  It doesn't look puckered when worn and it allows the bra to really conform and firmly hold around the body, the critical area of a bra.  Its value may be in offering longer term lastability over the smooth application as it may be less likely to stretch out and more likely to be comfortable.  But I have to believe there is a case for the smooth - same size elastic to same size powerstretch application. 


Given how much I've worn these, I'd say that alone speaks to the same:same over shorter:longer.  It's intriguing really, If anyone has studied using identical fabrics with varied construction of the band, I'd love to know which construction allows for the longest lasting, most comfortable bra.
Picture
Again at the cradle where it attaches to the band, we see the boning casing, quite similar to the underwire casing.  But, we also see the lining fabric as used on the bridge (below).  The powerstretch is on the left and used in the band.  The tricot or simplex (I'm not exactly sure what the fabric is), is located between the underwire and the side boning. You can see the polka dots barely shining through.  I believe this non-stretch combined with the boning, help hold everything up and in some ways help push it forward at the sides. Depending on your shape, you may have a longer or a shorter width from side seam to underwire.  The boning hits me just at the front of my underarm.  For some of us, the bustline tends to gravitate toward the armpits.this helps counter that and helps push the breast into the cup, where it should be.
Picture
Like you may have seen on ClothHabit, the inside seams of foam cups have a seam covering. I find it interesting that the lower cup seam has the lining and appears to be zig zagged, whereas the upper cup to lower cup cross-cup seam is only serged, then topstitched down. When worn, I'm not aware of either seam.  But when I first bought them, it did take some getting used to the lace vs. foam cup.  I was much more aware of the draftiness and the cross-cup seam then.
Picture
Finally, we see the firm, non-stretch, lightweight tricot or simplex material I've yet to find or identify. In my underwire sports bras, I really liked this fabric at the bridge. It gave the really stretchy fabric some structure and I found that comfortable when running, jumping, etc.
Picture
What is your favorite feature in a bra? 

Have you looked at your own bras to see how you can translate some of those features into your bra making? Or even your clothing? 

Can you shine a light on the bridge and cradle fabric? 

Have you tested out comfort and lastability in bra materials vs. construction? 
Comments

Lifted, Gifted, Higher: Research + Source Bra Fitting Help

9/27/2014

Comments

 
Picture

When starting my first bra, I felt like I needed make the full bra in order to see how the cups would fit because that would be the only way to have all the support in place.  Monica suggested we fit an individual cup and showed how in her Sew Expo workshop. But, when I tried to do that on myself, my girls did *not* want to cooperate. Ugh.

You see, my girls don't sit up and bark. They do the Miranda clap. They aren't a fondant covered birthday cake with pointy candles that want happy birthday sung to them (there's a story there, yes). My girls wander where they will and are great friends with a pretty cool and very consistent guy named Mr. Gravity. When I attempt to fit them unsupported, it's like trying to "nail jello to a tree," a term from my Texan friends, or maybe it's like trying to catch fish with your bare hands.  Odd at best.

Picture

When I am working through a challenge I research. Heavily.  I pour through my bookshelf. I buy books recommended by other sewers who've been working on similar projects. I follow threads and surf waves of knowledge and links as far as they will take me. I know others must have been through this. Sewing is such an old craft.  There must be tribal knowledge somewhere.  

In search of an answer, I read many blogs  Maddie's,  Kathy's,  Amy's,  Novita's and several others.  In my experience, no one single person has all the answers I am seeking. Using multiple sources allows me to get a very complete answer.  

With a fit, the most helpful thing is for me to draft a pattern based on my own measurements.  That way, I'm not trying to alter someone else's block or with a body style or shape that has very different fitting issues from my own. It cuts out a lot of pain and heartache. And saves on fabric too.  This and my research brought me to Beverly.

Picture

Beverly Johnson, bra pattern designer and owner of Bra-Makers Supply is known as the Fairy Bra Mother.  (Help me, oh Fairy Bra Mother!) The Bra-Makers Supply is one of the biggest suppliers in North America with the best and most clearly organized selection.  

In searching for reviews of Beverly's patterns, I came across Emerald Erin's blog. She spent a week learning to bras at Boob Camp and sew swimwear with Beverly. I also found a great interview that Stephanie of Starcross Sewing did on Beverly. Stephanie is also challenging herself with a year in indie patterns.  She's picked some unusual and fun patterns and introduced me to some new designers.  I enjoyed her interviews also.

After reading those posts, I was sold on Beverly's work.  I invested in her book, The Bra Makers Manual, Vol. 2 (because it has a section on pattern drafting) and the Shelley pattern. In her book I discovered that for many breast types & shapes, fitting the cup must take place while the breast is supported. Oh wonderful. Now I get it.  

Did you know she has a Craftsy class that just launched? Yay!

Picture

I also invested in a book by Norma of Orange Lingerie, Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction, months ago.  I must not have been ready to read it, because I was caught by the kindle formatting and couldn't see beyond to the content.  Thanks to Kathy's post this week, I went back to Norma's book this weekend. Norma has a section called testing and fitting the toile. It's ultimately a muslin version of a bra with some great notes on how to work through fit. And I thought I had to get the underwire and all that jazz in first. Oh how lovely.

Now I am ready to draft a pattern and test the fit for Bra #3!  

Do you research before starting a major project? Or do you dive right in?

Are there any other bra resources or people sewing them/blogging about them you recommend? I'd love to know!

Comments
<<Previous
    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

    RSS Feed

    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Sewing in Seattle

    Archives

    December 2018
    June 2018
    April 2018
    February 2018
    August 2017
    December 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    October 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    April 2009
    December 2008

    Categories

    All
    Activewear
    Adventures
    Art
    Artists
    ArtOfThe20sDress
    Calligraphy
    Cartoons
    Clown
    Comedy
    Costumes
    Creativity
    Crochet
    Dance
    Dancewear
    Dingleballs
    DIY
    Fabric
    Fashion
    Fiber
    Fitting
    Food
    Funkifabrics
    Garden
    Handwriting
    Hiking Gear
    Holiday
    Humor
    Inspiration
    Interviews
    Jalie 2795
    Jalie 2795 Hoodie Sew Along
    Jalie Patterns
    Jewelry
    KiddieAdultsUnite
    Kitchen
    Kits
    Knits
    Knitting Patterns
    Lifted Gifted Higher
    Lingerie
    Littlealters2013
    Mad Men Dress Challenge III
    Marketing
    MMMay14
    Moulage
    Muslin
    Needle & Thread
    Nwcreativespirits
    Outdoor Gear
    Paint
    Paper
    Passthepaper2012
    Pattern Drafting
    Photoaday
    Photography
    Pmc
    Prayer
    Projects
    Sculpt
    Sew
    Sewforvictory
    Sewing Workout Wear
    Sew News
    Shows
    Shrinky Dink
    Sing
    Skillshare
    Social Media
    Spring
    Spring Race Challenge
    Stories
    Tutorials
    Video
    Vintage
    Voiceover
    Wardrobe Architect
    Watercolor
    Yarn

Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now