It's sew for victory submission deadline day! 

When I started, I thought I was going to make a 1940's shirt dress.  But, because I needed hiking gear and stuff to wear in the spring race challenge, I returned to the playsuit.  

When I bought Eva Dress 4536, Xandra had not yet converted it to a multi sized pattern. That tells you I've had this pattern stashed a while.  Probably > 5 years.  

I pulled out the pattern pieces and my moulage, traced some lines and roughly estimated what the rest of the pattern would need.  For example, you can see the slash and spread I did on the bust dart to create the similar shape as found on the playsuit.  I had so much fun drafting and using my moulage.  This really got me motivated and excited about drafting from my moulage.  Each piece I make from it gets better and I learn something.

Then, I grabbed the yard of hot pink and white polka dot swim fabric I bought at Mill End during the Portland Trip with Ryliss as well as some scraps of white swimwear flat folds I bought at Pacific Fabrics.

I love this pink. I mean LOVE!  I've been dreaming of clothing that I saw 5-10 years ago with places like Oilily, Gudrun Sjoden, Sewing Like Mad's Pink Vinyl Raincoat, and Oleana Sweaters.  Oh swoon!  And just now, I've finally collected the right fabrics and patterns that I'm making myself the clothes I've dreamed of.  I'm giddy!  I don't care if it's in vogue or makes anyone else happy but me.

While fitting Colette Patterns Parfait and Lily, I discovered that I need short & curved straps. Straight, long straps fall right off and hover around my bicep. Not cool. In Sarai's patterns, she offers 2-piece straps. That makes fitting them easy because you can sew a darted shape seam to connect them instead of straight seams.  However, I didn't want the bulk of a shoulder seam in this playsuit top, so I darted the pieces, draped them to fit, and then made curved one-piece straps.  They almost look like a v-neck above, don't they?  

After ripping out a couple times to tighten the gathered seam (it kept pooching funny) and also to take in the top ~ 1" or more, I finally got it all together and bound the seams in the white swim fabric.  I must say, the corners and points were the hardest to bind.

I did notice that I need to futher alter the back of my moulage as I'm getting weird diagonal draglines.  And, after putting the top on, it's so stretchy, that I could likely take out another 3-4".  But, for a nice fitting walking top (not a swim top) it'll be fine.  The straps are also too far apart in the back.  Even though I curved them, they still need to be moved into the centerline ~ 2" each.  That's an easy enough fix.

Not content to stop at just the top, I decided to see if I could make up a pair of matching bottoms so I could lounge about in this outfit by the pool or in the hot tub (it is so not made for swimming or any water activity, it'll slip right off).  Taking a queue from Monica Bravo's 2014 Sew Expo Panty class, I took measurements and drew a pattern from a pair of Lane Bryant panties that fit me well, don't ride up, and are comfortable. 

Then, I pulled out my 1970's Kwik Sew bikini pattern in sizes 6-10.  It feels odd to call this vintage, but it's Over 40 years old, so I guess it qualifies.  So, you know what's really fantastic? Based on the Lane Bryant fabric & measurements, I can use the size 8 or 10 pattern and have a pair of swim bottoms that fit.  Take that modern pattern sizing. Kwik Sew patterns are always a bit more generous, but I find that usually the patterns overall are more generous because they often had only wovens to work with. Make a vintage pattern in a knit that is a snug fit in a woven, usually it fits and quite well.

I tried on the bottoms after I got them basted together. Oh wow! They fit!  Now I have a matched set. Oh I'm gonna be so cute!  And PINK!!!

One of the great things about taking any class at Sewing & Design School from a guest instructor is that after they've gone, you still have Ryliss as a resource.  

Several months after Kenneth King's moulage class (around the winter holidays), I stopped in to an open lab. Ryliss and I worked out a T-shirt pattern and during that time I was also able to sew up a mock-up / muslin in a knit.  For my first piece from my moulage, it was pretty great fit.  Still have some wrinkles to fold out, but it was great to have Ryliss' expertise to lean on while I was drafting in the classroom at Sewing & Design School.

She has open labs, specific sewing classes (she did coats, which intrigued me last year), and she also brings in well known guest instructors like Kenneth King and Jan Bones.  

Plus she's taking a group to New York!  Hello Fashion District. Remember me swooning over boxes and boxes of buttons?  Yes, I will return to you one day soon. 

If you've read my previous posts about studying with Kenneth King and Jan Bones, you'll know I recommend both!  I use my moulage and my dress form hand in hand!

The two photos above are 

1. drafting the 1940's playsuit details onto my moulage, much easier than I expected.  
   
2. The same moulage pattern all sewn up and on my "perfectly me" dress form as I am working out that weird bubble and fabric puddling at my back waist / high hip.

Thanks to help from Kenneth, I'll be folding that out adjusting the flat pattern. If you've any other tips for handling weird rounded draglines like the image above, please do chime in.  I'd love to know more about how you've adjusted patterns to take those out.

Come join me in Tacoma at the Necklines & Collars class that Jan is Teaching in June!!


DETAILS: 
6/12 - 9-4 pm, $140
Necklines & Waistlines A SIT & SEW WORKSHOP w/Jan Bones - 

DESCRIPTION:
Necklines must be perfectly smooth, even and flattering. Finishes may be invisible or be seen from the right side as part of the garment design. The same pattern may have different neckline finishes to give a whole new look. This is a techniques class and you will sew different full scale samples to create necklines in both knit & woven fabric. Your sample booklet will be a great reference for your future sewing. The waistline edges of skirts and pants may be finished in many ways. Sew a set of samples in this class to learn the best choices for your projects. Techniques for knit and woven fabric will be included. You will sew waistbands, elastics, facings, ribbons, linings because they are all possible solutions for comfortable & attractive finishes for day-wear & nightwear! Thinking upside down, the techniques in this class are great for cuffs and bands on lower edges of jackets & vests. 

Lunch is included.

A $60 kit fee will be collected at the class.  It includes 2 notebooks for samples, Jan's 2 books "Anatomy of the Neckline" and "Anatomy of Waistline Finishes." and all pre-cut samples in fashion fabrics.

Cost:$ 140.00