Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Copy RTW T-Shirt Using Press N Seal

2/5/2016

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I made something for each of my family members for Christmas last year (2015). For my mom, since I've had some hits and misses, I chose to copy one of her existing shirts using Press N Seal.  That way I could at least work with a piece that fit well and not give away the secret of sewing her a shirt for Christmas. Besides, she's given me many, many beautiful supplies from fabric to yarn to art supplies over the years. It's high time she reap the benefits!
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To copy an existing pattern, you'll need to shift your brain into pattern mode. It saves time to make a pattern piece that will be placed on the fold. So fold the center fronts and center backs and align the side seams. I pin the side seams together, then smooth out the rest of the front pieces. This is a rayon knit, so it will behave a little better (smooth out and stay down) than your standard beefy T knit which likes to stand up at the armscye seams.

Once you can see a "front" or a "back" piece taking shape with neckline and hems aligned, place your Press N Seal.  I overlapped beyond the fold and also needed to add a 2nd piece of Press N Seal to account for the bell shaped / flared hemline.

Below, you can see the pinned side seams and the edge of the first piece of Press N Seal.
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Now that you have full coverage over the entire "Front" or "Back" piece, it's time to trace! 

I always mark the seam allowances exactly as finished, then will measure & transfer those to the pattern. Sometimes I do that when tracing the original piece, other times I do it later.
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The sleeve is handled the same way as front & back. Simply use the under arm seam as your 1/2 way point and smooth out until you reach the "fold".  I don't worry if the fold isn't exactly on grain or squared. I can true up the lines later. I've found it's pretty normal that the fabric will wander or skew depending on the quality of the construction, type of fabric, etc. You could use pins, but I chose not to so I could complete the project faster. I knew it would not be a big deal for the kind of T-shirt I'm making. Besides, I know from experience that many T-shirt sleeve are squared, so I used that knowledge as my baseline. 
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Once you finish with each pattern piece, peel your Press N Seal away carefully and place atop a piece of paper. I use a roll of butcher paper.  Then, I use magnets and secure the piece to my stove or filing cabinet until I'm ready to trace and true each pattern piece onto the paper. I always mark each piece with the date I made it and the name of the person who will wear it. Bodies change and it's too easy to forget what a piece was for when you pull it out weeks or even years later. Trust me. I've recycled patterns for that very reason of being unmarked. "What the hell is this for?!?!"

Here's the body of the pattern cut out of a deliciously lovely tie-dye rayon knit that Marcy & Katherine Tilton sold at Sew Expo a few years ago. The knit stripe is also from them, though it's a little heavier single cotton knit.
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I was inspired by so many of Marcy's sample makes of her patterns that show up in Vogue as well as the kits she puts together to mix and match.  Both she & Katherine are very artful with their T-shirt making and even have a new Craftsy class all about it.  My mom was the one who introduced me to their work, so I felt it fitting that she receive the benefits of her own artsy t-shirt!  Thus, I used the stripe as the neck binding and for the sleeves. 
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Isn't it cute?! I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Plus, it fits her nicely!
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now