Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Fehr Trade Patterns: PB Jam Leggings

4/5/2014

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http://www.fehrtrade.com/shop/785/pb-jam-leggings-patternImage Source: fehrtrade.com
When Melissa Fehr came out with her first 2 athletic / activewear patterns I was giddy. I've been watching her make lots of running tights and totally see the application in my walking and yoga practice. So of course I had to support her and get myself a sewing pattern of her Fehr Trade PB Jam Leggings.

Image to the left shows that they have neat swoops which run from either side of the center back at the back waist and wrap around to the inner thigh at nearly the knee. Pretty fun because you could easily mix prints and solids. The swoop could be a print or the swoop could be solid against a print like Melissa did in her photos to the left.

I looked at this pattern and all I could see was pink. My world was totally pink. Pink and Red. I was playing with pink & red fabrics at Seattle Fabrics and came up with the idea to do pink as my main color (which I LOVE) and red for my swoop. I decided to call them, "Hey Cupid, don't be stupid! Pick me!"  Meaning, it's time for me. And I had this funny vision of me dressed as Cupid in these pants. So off I went with my pink and red. 

One thing to know about Melissa's patterns is they're download format. Which means you do need to plan for extra time matching and cutting out. Get a good show or audio book on and get to cutting. I found it relaxing once I quit fussing about how much extra time I was spending. Ok, ok, so I am a little impatient to get to the final product once I've had a vision like cupid. It's not anyone's problem but mine. :) 

After measuring, adjusting and taking in the waist a bit, I cut out my fabric. I started looking at the fabric a little closer.  

Look at these pictures below.  

Can you see why I was a little concerned? 
If I can perfectly identify the markings on my cutting mat, then anyone is going to be able to read my ass as I'm skating or walking down the road. I've already had some idiot woman sing me the jello jiggler song once in my life (I can't help it, I wiggle!) and made me feel bad. I'm gonna go out in public being brave and wearing my favorite colors which will likely shock the hell out of this pretty conservative grey pacific northwest world, so I don't need to add to my brave deeds by allowing everyone who sees me read "wednesday" on my panties. No thank you!  Though, now that I think about it, I could have the words, "If you can read this, you'd better have a ring." on my bum like Roz did in the show Night Court.  Wha ha ha ha ha!  

So, I popped over to Joann's because I didn't have time to make a trip to Seattle and I wanted my pants NOW!  I found an even brighter pink.  Day GLO!  The woman at the cutting counter said, in the most droll manner, "Wow. This is a little hard on the eyes." to which I was very proud. That means when I walk, people will SEE me. I like that. Safety first!  My brother asked, "Can the poor woman still see?" Hah! Silly boy.
As you can see in the photos directly above, the PB Jam Leggings in HOT pink are no longer see thru. Woo Hoo! 2 layers did the trick. Or so I thought... 

I put them on after stitching entirely together and found that they walk down my legs. Not just the legs, but from the waist down. My pants WALK themselves! All of a sudden my bum was hanging out at home. WTH?  So, I ripped out the folderover waist & elastic, took out 6" and cinched it down.  Next walk about the house, yep, the pants are still walking down my legs, but the elastic helps keep them in place.  I added a fabric covered waist band in matching red to the top so I could lengthen the back crotch curve. That seems to help.
I don't know why they're doing this walking thing, so I asked Jan Bones at Sew Expo in passing between her classes. Her quick, helpful comment was, maybe they're too tight at the thighs and legs and are walking until they find a spot where there's enough fabric to "live" at.  Meaning they move down until there's enough space in the leg for my calf or thigh.  Excellent point. The pants pool at my ankles too, so  this is a very likely root cause.  However, I haven't any more seem allowance to play with.  I could gain some more room by ripping out the double layers of fabric, but that would mean ripping out all major seams (crotch curve, inseam, outer leg, waist band).  I just don't feel like doing that.  Plus, there' are weird horizontal drag lines right at my bum on the hip line. I'm guessing I need a little more room.
So here's the weirdest thing about all of these drag lines, pulling, and walking bits.  I have GOBS of room or ease that I could pinch out.  See how much there is when I sit cross legged. Normally, with my RTW leggings, there's maybe an 1" to 3" to stretch out, but the leggings fit tighter and are more form fitting to begin with.  On the crotch in the PB Jam Leggings below, I could pinch out 6" - 8" folded when I sit, but not so much when I'm standing.  I made the largest size based on measurements even at the leg.  So, not having a ton of pant making experience, 

I turn to you dear readers.... 

How do I get a tighter fit in the crotch and inseam without having the dreaded camel toe? 
Picture
There are a few wrinkles in the legs as I sit straight. 

Could this mean there's more ease to take out? 
Picture
One last note, if you can see in the photo below, I used fold over elastic instead of hemming the bottom of the leg. Oh how I loved working with it.  Using it over 2 layers of fabric was a bit tricky at times since there was hardly any room.  The finish of this though is freakin professional. SO amazing. I felt like a rockstar when I finished.  Like I was some famous designer (insert hair toss).  

Try some fold over elastic. You just might fall in love.
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now