Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Jalie 2794 Sweetheart Top #2 in Farbenmix Cotton Knit

1/26/2016

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I loved my ziggy sweetheart top Jalie 2794 so much that I decided to use one of my coveted Farbenmix cotton T-shirt knit to make a 2nd version.  I cut the olive and green stripe on the selvedge edge so that it would result in blocky striping along the neckline. I adore this color blue with the teal / aqua. The shirt is super comfy. 
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I took the shoulders down a size. Basically about 1/2" taken out. I think that helps smooth out the lines from bust to shoulder. You can still see my typical bust dart that likes to creep in. I'm very, very short distanced in the front armscye curve. That and the bust curve out often mean I have "wings" of fabric that hang out there if I don't take a bust dart. Judy Barlup was the first to suggest that I'd like that alteration, much like she uses. She's right on. Though, in this top, I think I will skip that alteration for now. It doesn't seem that important for this type of play / casual top. 
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I asked the #sewcialists on instagram for their feedback on the fit of the back. Kate Davies (@fabrickated) gave a great suggestion to add a little more at the hips and see if the rest relaxes. I also agree with chrichrimano, marishi3000, and thegreenviolet that a small swayback adjustment may help fit the lower back curve. Swayback adjustments are very normal for me. On some patterns, the swayback adjustment has been many inches which resulted in a weird sharp angled curve that really doesn't work out well on the body.  So, it's really nice to have a shirt fit so well overall that the adjustments are minor (less than an inch and very low angles) rather than being huge and major (many inches & angles).
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now