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Jalie 2795 Hoodie Sew Along - Sewing & Welt Pockets

10/12/2015

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The first step in sewing the Jalie hoodie is tackling those welt pockets. In many ways, it's nice to tackle the tough stuff first. Though, they are quite easy given Kelly's tips on interfacing and such. 

​My fabric is HOT Pink. Electric!  I'm just loving how the stitching half blends into this microfleece. Lookin good!  Can you believe that this is actually the back to side back seam? Do you see how CLEAN and smooth that fabric is?  There was no fighting to align seams, no fighting with attaching a curve, nor a big galumph of fabric to fend off as I stitched the seam. Glorious!  Jalie, I'm in LOVE.
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Once I got both side back pieces edge and seam stitched (skipping the top stitching until I can get the nearly complete jacket on for fitting), I then tacked the back onto my double. Uh, do you see how smooth and and the same time shapely that looks on my backside? Hello Awesome. Sure, there are a few wrinkles and draglines. But, there's been NO fitting. The only adjustment for my body was to grade up 2 sizes from waist to hip. 
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I keep a box of interfacing so that I never have to wonder where it's at. So, I dug that out of my basement and found that I had some free samples of Jenny Haskins interfacing (does it even exist anymore?) from Sew Expo a few years ago. I used that for the pocket on the front piece. Then I used knit interfacing on the pocket welt (I alternated the stretch so that once interfaced I had a welt that behaved like a woven. The fleece stretches around the body, but not along. I rotated the interfacing so that it would stretch along the body, but not around.   As a result, there is no stretch once interfaced.
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On the fleece top I made last year (see day 12 from Me Made May 2015), I made the stupid mistake of not paying attention to nap. I cut two right sleeves out. Dismally disappointing, that meant the wrong side became visible side.  Even microfleece pills differently on right vs, wrong side. So, I took great care to ensure I cut them all out with the nap going the same direction and with each piece cut so that there would be left and a right on the right side of the fabric as needed.

To take that idea one step further, I even market the "top" of the welt with a T so I wouldn't have to repeatedly pet my fabric to figure out which way was up. It's rather disappointing to be all done, put your jacket on then rub your hands down your body to smooth out your jacket and ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Crash! Boom! What the ... ?! The nap on the welt goes up and the rest of the jacket the nap goes down. DOH!  So I "T'd" things up. ;) 
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I was rather nervous about cutting and sewing this jacket. I've had many patterns not fit well. But I'm starting to see that Jalie Patterns are quite the exception to the rule, even for my unique body type (sway back, full bum, hour glass, pear, highway 101 curvy).  That's such a delightful discovery!  Onward HO!
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now