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Learning to Draft My Moulage from Kenneth D. King

11/27/2013

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You may know him as contributing editor for Threads magazine, or FIT instructor, or better yet from his gorgeous courtier designs.  It's Kenneth D. King!!

Ryliss of Sewing & Design School brought Kenneth to Tacoma to teach us how to draft our moulage and sleeve as she believes he is the best drafter in the business.  What a treat!
Kenneth explaining the process of creating princess seams to the 2013 Moulage class at Sewing & Design School of Tacoma.  Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod. Copyright (c) 2013 Ryliss Bod, Sewing and Design School. All Rights Reserved.
Kenneth explaining the process of creating princess seams. Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod.
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The entry to Opera Alley, where you enter Sewing & Design School. Photo by Gwen Gyldenege (c) 2013. All rights reserved.
I decided to take the class not only to augment the dress form I made in Jan Bones class, but also because I do enjoy drafting and I rarely have had or made the opportunity to draft save for in creating my own sewing patterns.  

You see, by the time I entered my first career field, Mechanical Engineering, it's drafting was all done entirely on a computer through a CAD program or in some other program to create parts on 3-D printer.  The paper, rulers and pencils went to the wayside for ME's, but we didn't let those awesome drafting tables go to waste - In our study room, we used the drafting tables for doing our homework and creating fond memories of silliness.  
Years ago, I drafted skirt patterns with Cecilia Podolak (a simply lovely lady and instructor) at Haberman's Fabrics (A MUST go visit!). It was fun and I wanted more, but haven't drafted since. So, when Kenneth's class came up in Tacoma, I was determined to attend. I even sold off a bunch of my coveted club and hard-to-find fiber & yarn stash to pay for the class. Now that's dedication!  And it was worth it.
Showing off my dingleball bouquet over my sleeve draft in the 2013 moulage and sleeve class at Tacoma Sewing & Design School. Photo by Gwen Gyldenege. Copyright (c) 2013. All Rights Reserved.
The top of the sleeve draft. Photo by Gwen Gyldenege. Copyright (c) 2013. All Rights Reserved.
The drafting tools we used in the 2013 moulage and sleeve class at Tacoma Sewing & Design School. Photo by Gwen Gyldenege. Copyright (c) 2013. All Rights Reserved.
Dingleballs and sleeves. Wouldn't those be fun along a seam? My sleeve draft in the 2013 moulage and sleeve class at Tacoma Sewing & Design School. Photo by Gwen Gyldenege. Copyright (c) 2013. All Rights Reserved.
Part of the class was hard because I haven't been feeling well. So, naturally I was hard on myself, shy, and wanted to hide. Yes, I was shy. It happens more than you'd realize. And the other parts of the class, the people, Kenneth, the finished moulage, were very fun. I met amazing people and made fast friends with several in the class. What a pleasure to be around such sharp and interested sewing minds. 
Hard at work. The 2013 Moulage class at Sewing & Design School of Tacoma.  Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod. Copyright (c) 2013 Ryliss Bod, Sewing and Design School. All Rights Reserved.
The 2013 Moulage class is hard at Work. I'm right in the middle with my African Inspired skirt. Photo Courtesy of Ryliss Bod, Tacoma Sewing & Design School.
The moulage is the foundation of the couture pattern drafting system taught by the Ecole Guerre-Lavigne in Paris. This is a system of measuring the figure, calculating, and drafting a pattern that will fit the torso like a second skin, incorporating any of the infinite variations of shape the human figure can take.  -- Kenneth D. King' s Website
Kenneth explains drafting the front of the moulage in the 2013 Moulage class at Sewing & Design School of Tacoma.  Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod. Copyright (c) 2013 Ryliss Bod, Sewing and Design School. All Rights Reserved.
Kenneth explains drafting the front of the moulage. Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod, Tacoma Sewing & Design School.
I learned quite a lot from Kenneth and really enjoyed the later parts of the class when he shared a few pattern drafting tips on how to make things like Juliet sleeves and such. That point, where you connect the dots and see how point A takes you to point B and now you have a tool that you can do ANYTHING with, is when I really "get" the value of a basic or a fundamental lesson.  I've always wanted to sew myself a dress or top with Juliet sleeves and now I know that I can make one that will totally fit ME! :D 

We also had time to get to know Kenneth at a dinner one evening and between bits in classes.  Quite a funny man. He has loads of entertaining stories and loves to chat with his students while helping them learn. It made the 4 consecutive days of class fun and go by quickly. 
Kenneth & Leah posing at the 2013 Moulage class at Sewing & Design School of Tacoma.  Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod. Copyright (c) 2013 Ryliss Bod, Sewing and Design School. All Rights Reserved.
Kenneth & Leah posing. Photo courtesy of Ryliss Bod, Tacoma Sewing & Design School.
Shortly after our class, Kenneth was awarded the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals' (ASDP) 2013 Lifetime Achievement Award. Congratulations Kenneth!  You are most deserving!!  Thank you for continuing to share your gifts and talents.
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now