Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Mad Men Dress Challenge III: Tissue Fitting & Cut It Out

3/25/2014

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Tissue Fitting

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After successful tissue fitting with Parfait, I decided that I'd tissue fit Lily. It's unusual for me to find a straight skirt with enough room in the hips. When I do the waist is usually 5-7" too big. Hello Darts! But, I was most pleasantly surprised when I tissue fit Lily and had NO darting necessary in the skirt. Holy what?!  Love it!  

I do however need to take in the bodices on both dresses. With Parfait, I had to lengthen the bust (a FBA was too much) and take in around the high bust and shoulder areas. With Lily, I will likely have to take in the bust or side seams a little, take in dart shapes at the high bust on most of the seams and lengthen the straps. To me, that's very little adjustment on a pattern. I don't have to make any crazy darts at the waist or mess with the side seam shaping. It's wonderful. 

Make Do and Cut It Out

Yay! I got all the pieces to fit on the fabric I have (including on the skirt panels from the frogged skirt - yes, I'm going to say frogged for seam ripping). The ONLY exception is the pocket. 

As you can see in the upper right photo, I just couldn't get the pocket to fit on the remaining fabric. So... take a big gasp of shock now ... I cut the top of the pocket on the straight of grain and the bottom of the pocket on the cross grain. There is a risk that the fabric will stretch funny in the pocket, but I think I'm pretty safe having it be at the bottom and only on the back half (closest to my body) of the pocket pieces.  If it's too wonky, I can always cut it out of lining fabric, but I prefer a sturdier pocket. 

All in all, I'm thrilled with the results of the cut out.
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now