Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Orange Lingerie Montgomery Brief

2/3/2016

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I was suitibly inspired by Novita's (VeryPurplePerson) and Anne-Marie's (ecoutemacherie) makes of the Montgomery Brief by Orange Lingerie. It's a lovely looking that introduces lace and mesh into a single pattern and, most importantly, is designed to avoid pantylines in the rear! Sounds awesome, right?

Just posted my new lingerie set #sewing #handmadelingerie #orangelingerie #boylstonbra #montgomerybrief #ohhhlulusews

A photo posted by Novita Estiti (@verypurpleperson) on Jan 12, 2016 at 12:03am PST

XRays - me made lingerie #Boylston #bra #boylstonbra #Montgomery #brief #montgomerybrief @orange_lingerie #orangelingerie #bestpatterns #memade #lingerie #bramaking #proud #blackandwhite #photography #homestudio #tabletop

A photo posted by ecoutemacherie (@ecoutemacherie) on Dec 13, 2015 at 7:55pm PST

For my own personal, "January is Lingerie Month" I decided it would be worth trying the Montgomery Brief along with the other panty patterns I was focused upon. Even though the pattern is designed for stretch mesh and lace, I thought it would be quick to try a test fit in a single knit cotton. Keep in mind, the fabric I'm using is thicker than what the pattern calls for. 

Additionally, my measurements go beyond the pattern. Thus, I would normally grade up.  However, because I didn't know exactly how this would fit, (sometimes fabric stretch does accommodate more sizes) I figured it would be worth trying the pattern out at the top size, XL for 44 - 46" hip.  My hip is actually 47-48".  Not too far off. Though, my rumpus (as a friend used to call her bum), is a bit rounder than most. So, trying out the XL would be the only way to see if this will fit my body well as is or require modifications.
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There isn't a whole lot of elastic used throughout the pattern and the construction is very different from all the other panty patterns I've made. I like that it's different. Even the pattern pieces are very different. What a welcome change.  I also felt better about spending $13 for a panty pattern knowing it would be drastically different than my other patterns. Otherwise, I may not have even bothered. Thanks Norma!
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I really enjoyed making this pair of panties.  Though, the fit isn't right for my body. I put them on and found the following areas needing alterations.

 - Back waist is too low. If I bend, squat or move too much, I may flash too much.
I do not wish to be part of the "butt putty tavern" clan which is a bar where the door was open and when you happened to look while passing by, you caught a glimpse of how very much you could see of the the crack of the patrons behinds. An old friend used to wish she had some putty to could fill the cracks and avoid having to see it." 

 - The leg opening top of thigh is a little too low for my leg / hip shape. 

 - The seam where back to crotch is joined is very noticeable. Like WAY noticeable to me. "What is that weird feeling thing that's going on back there?! I do not like the way the seam rubs. Mind, there are several layers going on at that seam (4 layers not counting the elastic. I would, in future, figure out a way to minimize seams and encase them. Though the typical sandwich method may not work for this design.

- The bum is definitely too small. When on my body instead of rounding out the shape between the cheeks, it looks like this photo (bottom left)  I found in "The Lingerie Handbook Transform your Body, Transform your Self" By Apsan, Rebecca.  Oh that's good to know that not only does it feel too small, but Rebecca confirms the fit is also too small.  

This means I will need to grade up and alter the pattern for the above areas. Though, I do think they won't be too severe. It'll be fun to try this with some stretch mesh and see how that fit is. With the single knit, and it being too small, I don't think I could truly test the "non panty line" features of this design. 

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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now
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