After MeMadeMay2015 and my continued work on the Wardrobe Architect, I decided one gap to fill in my wardrobe is sporty tops with built-in bras. I like the simplicity of the built-in bra. No decisions, no worries about what's showing, just put it on, look awesome and go!
You know from my past posts that I made and enjoy wearing my XYT workout top, I like Kwik Sew patterns and I really love Sewing Lingerie patterns as Jan designs with comfort, practicality, and the average woman in mind. So, I sat at my table pondering which of 3 sports bra tops to make.
You know from my past posts that I made and enjoy wearing my XYT workout top, I like Kwik Sew patterns and I really love Sewing Lingerie patterns as Jan designs with comfort, practicality, and the average woman in mind. So, I sat at my table pondering which of 3 sports bra tops to make.
A 2nd XYT Top? Source: FehrTrade | A Kwik Sew 3672 Top? Source: KwikSew | The Shelf Bra Camisole? Source: Sewing Lingerie |
I pulled each pattern out and overlay them on my cutting table. Of the 3, the Shelf Bra Camisole is the only one which takes into account cup size. Jan actually included 4 unique sets of pattern pieces to accommodate an A - D cup size. After seeing how the XYT top fit my bust while wearing, I decided that if I was going to make it again, I would definitely need to perform a full bust adjustment (FBA) as I am typically several sizes larger than a D. And the XYT wasn't quite the support I wanted. The Sewing Lingerie pattern also takes into account length adjustments in a knit for an FBA and includes cute tucks at the bust side seams that help the knit curve around the bust.
The Kwik Sew stops at an XL, whereas the Shelf Bra Cami goes up to a 4XL. Comparing just those two on overall size, the Shelf Bra Cami gave me more to work with and eliminated my need to grade up the pattern.
The Kwik Sew stops at an XL, whereas the Shelf Bra Cami goes up to a 4XL. Comparing just those two on overall size, the Shelf Bra Cami gave me more to work with and eliminated my need to grade up the pattern.
The back piece for both the XYT and the Kwik Sew shelf bras were several inches smaller in height and designed to sit lower on the back. As I am a bit full busted, I like my bras to offer generous coverage in the back basically from armscye to mid ribcage. Sewing Lingerie patterns are great for this kind of coverage. Every time I wear one of my Sewing Lingerie bras I feel free to move, I don't fuss with pulling the bra up or down to "smooth out" my roundy bits, and I feel wonderfully supported. It's kind of like someone has a hand on each side of my back supporting me all day.
Another bonus of the Shelf Bra cami and most of Jan's patterns is that they are straight straps like an ordinary bra, not usually a racer back. As much as I love the racer back look, that often gives me a headache as the weight of my bust pulls on my shoulder and neck muscles. So I opt for straight straps.
Another bonus of the Shelf Bra cami and most of Jan's patterns is that they are straight straps like an ordinary bra, not usually a racer back. As much as I love the racer back look, that often gives me a headache as the weight of my bust pulls on my shoulder and neck muscles. So I opt for straight straps.
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Since I hadn't made the shelf bra camisole yet, I decided I'd try it. Though, as part of my test and due to my experience with a bit too much bounce with my XYT top (only uses a double layer of nylon lycra for the bra, no powernet), I added in a layer of powernet with the other layer for the shelf bra. I didn't account for the stretch, I just cut it to match.
I also opted to include a layer of powernet in the yolk to add support and lift. When I make the XYT again, I will run the shelf bra all the way to the shoulder seams to increase the support and lift. I really like how the powernet in the shelfbra cami has worked out.
I also opted to include a layer of powernet in the yolk to add support and lift. When I make the XYT again, I will run the shelf bra all the way to the shoulder seams to increase the support and lift. I really like how the powernet in the shelfbra cami has worked out.
For fabric, I used this cheerful print from Pacific Fabrics I picked up at their Sew Expo 2015 booth and a bit of white I bought from an online vendor who just went out of business. I love how the white sets off the aqua and green dots. I also used knit cotton elastic as is typically used in swimwear. So this top can be worn for any out-of-water sport, including hiking, dancing, skating, or any in-water sport such as swimming or SUP.
I was pretty excited as I sewed this top, because half way through I figured out that I do have a triple stitch zig-zag on my older bernina and it worked beautifully! Even more stretch and stability than the standard zigzag.
I was pretty excited as I sewed this top, because half way through I figured out that I do have a triple stitch zig-zag on my older bernina and it worked beautifully! Even more stretch and stability than the standard zigzag.
- Pattern: Shelf Bra Camisole from Sewing Lingerie
- Size: 2XL bust to a 4XL hip, D-cup
- Fabric: Printed nylon lycra from Pacific Fabrics and White nylon lycra from retired business.
- Notions: knitted cotton elastic from Nancy's Sewing Basket.
- Likes? D-cup sizing, generous back coverage, straight straps, accounts for an FBA in a knit
- Dislikes? underbust tucks in powernet show through on occasion. That's not an issue with the pattern, but rather with how I adapted powernet to the pattern.
- Will I make it again? Absoultely. Without question. I love it so much I cut a 2nd one out in black the moment I finished the last stitch on this one!
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