Sew4Victory: A 1940's Playsuit Turned Modern Swimsuit

It's sew for victory submission deadline day! 

When I started, I thought I was going to make a 1940's shirt dress.  But, because I needed hiking gear and stuff to wear in the spring race challenge, I returned to the playsuit.  

When I bought Eva Dress 4536, Xandra had not yet converted it to a multi sized pattern. That tells you I've had this pattern stashed a while.  Probably > 5 years.  

I pulled out the pattern pieces and my moulage, traced some lines and roughly estimated what the rest of the pattern would need.  For example, you can see the slash and spread I did on the bust dart to create the similar shape as found on the playsuit.  I had so much fun drafting and using my moulage.  This really got me motivated and excited about drafting from my moulage.  Each piece I make from it gets better and I learn something.

Then, I grabbed the yard of hot pink and white polka dot swim fabric I bought at Mill End during the Portland Trip with Ryliss as well as some scraps of white swimwear flat folds I bought at Pacific Fabrics.

I love this pink. I mean LOVE!  I've been dreaming of clothing that I saw 5-10 years ago with places like Oilily, Gudrun Sjoden, Sewing Like Mad's Pink Vinyl Raincoat, and Oleana Sweaters.  Oh swoon!  And just now, I've finally collected the right fabrics and patterns that I'm making myself the clothes I've dreamed of.  I'm giddy!  I don't care if it's in vogue or makes anyone else happy but me.

While fitting Colette Patterns Parfait and Lily, I discovered that I need short & curved straps. Straight, long straps fall right off and hover around my bicep. Not cool. In Sarai's patterns, she offers 2-piece straps. That makes fitting them easy because you can sew a darted shape seam to connect them instead of straight seams.  However, I didn't want the bulk of a shoulder seam in this playsuit top, so I darted the pieces, draped them to fit, and then made curved one-piece straps.  They almost look like a v-neck above, don't they?  

After ripping out a couple times to tighten the gathered seam (it kept pooching funny) and also to take in the top ~ 1" or more, I finally got it all together and bound the seams in the white swim fabric.  I must say, the corners and points were the hardest to bind.

I did notice that I need to futher alter the back of my moulage as I'm getting weird diagonal draglines.  And, after putting the top on, it's so stretchy, that I could likely take out another 3-4".  But, for a nice fitting walking top (not a swim top) it'll be fine.  The straps are also too far apart in the back.  Even though I curved them, they still need to be moved into the centerline ~ 2" each.  That's an easy enough fix.

Not content to stop at just the top, I decided to see if I could make up a pair of matching bottoms so I could lounge about in this outfit by the pool or in the hot tub (it is so not made for swimming or any water activity, it'll slip right off).  Taking a queue from Monica Bravo's 2014 Sew Expo Panty class, I took measurements and drew a pattern from a pair of Lane Bryant panties that fit me well, don't ride up, and are comfortable. 

Then, I pulled out my 1970's Kwik Sew bikini pattern in sizes 6-10.  It feels odd to call this vintage, but it's Over 40 years old, so I guess it qualifies.  So, you know what's really fantastic? Based on the Lane Bryant fabric & measurements, I can use the size 8 or 10 pattern and have a pair of swim bottoms that fit.  Take that modern pattern sizing. Kwik Sew patterns are always a bit more generous, but I find that usually the patterns overall are more generous because they often had only wovens to work with. Make a vintage pattern in a knit that is a snug fit in a woven, usually it fits and quite well.

I tried on the bottoms after I got them basted together. Oh wow! They fit!  Now I have a matched set. Oh I'm gonna be so cute!  And PINK!!!