Below, you'll see I have odd wrinkles just under the bust toward the sides. I folded that out,then looked at where the gathered line hit my bust. Having an underbust line hit at mid or low, but not under the bust is a pet peeve of mine. It's like, "Hey, look, I'm wearing something that doesn't fit me and is made for someone with a smaller bust."
So, adjust the bust I must! Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), here I come!
I started by slicing & dicing. But, as I looked at the piece, it added more to the sides where I had just folded out ~ 1" of fabric. Well, that won't do. Hmm, think, think, think. Voila! I can just gamble, do what is "not to be done" and add seam allowance to the pattern edge where I need it. Why is that a "no. no."? Because typically it alters the pattern lines, mating edges and in some cases the grain. But, you know what?! It actually worked. Adding an inch to the underbust did it. I have a few more gathers than anticipated, but it's perfectly full and just what I wanted.
I'd like you to note that last bit: Doing the Taboo, lengthening a seam instead of doing the accepted FBA, worked out to be Just What I Wanted.
I've spent lots of time trying to do the right thing, but am just now giving myself permission to explore with the possibility of success or failure. This might not have worked, but because it did and because I tried something taboo, I learned, made it fit and could move on! WOOT!
This has been so educational. I'm just trusting that the form fits and that no matter what shape I'm sewing, be it odd dart shapes with the side seams, that it will fit and fit well.
Now to the pockets. I adored the pattern to begin with, pockets and all on the models and other sewists. But, as I put them on the dress, it goes from glamorous with a fun, kitschy (but not over the top) twist to hokey, cliche, and very jumper esque. I thought maybe it was the red on the pockets, but it's actually the gathered pockets. I feel like I have a second bust at my waist like some sort of strange alien. Well, if I'm feeling that way now, likely not to change. Having the pockets at a lower or their actual drafted level tends to over emphasize my ultra round rump-us (fanny).
The smooth, sleek look of the front seems just too compromised for my body and taste. Usually, I choose flat pockets that blend into the seams or panels so that they seem a natural part of the dress. It's hard to give up a place to store goodies like gemstones, but for the best, most flattering look, I think it necessary.
Hope to post some photos of me wearing it soon as I finish the hem and the facings. I'm in love!