Calm Under Tension by Gwen Gyldenege
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Sponsored: Completed! Titan Fabric Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print

11/6/2015

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This is the final post in my series on Designing and Sewing a Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print on Funkifabrics Titan fabric.  Previous posts, in reverse chronological order: ​
  • Sponsored: Fashion Illustrations & Cutting the Titan Fabric for a Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print
  • Sponsored: Sketching Designs & Completing the Muslin for a Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print
  • ​Sponsored: Creating a Muslin for a Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print
  • Sponsored: Drafting A Dancewear Top in Funkifabrics Titan
  • Sponsored: Planning a Dancewear/Activewear Top in a Large Scale Print
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I'm tickled with how great this looks on. I was concerned that even after planning and testing with a muslin that the large print would "wear me" and make my body look larger. Thanks to the slim profile, it is actually fun and flattering!  

Though, I did learn that Titan behaves differently than most nylon-lycras I've used.  While Titan is a 4-way knit, The hand and drape of Titan fabric reminds me of interlock, or even a 2-way.  It likes to keep it's original shape.  I could tell this by
  • The way the fabric wrinkled up from my hips 
  • It's tendancy to stand away from my body
  • It's hand is like a cross between a mid-light weight nylon-lycra (think average swimsuit material) and a thick stretchy board short material.  It does occasionally remind me of sounds that I hear from ripstop nylon.  Though, the nylon behaviors are VERY, VERY faint. 
I think I could actually let the top out some at the hips to encourage the material to lay flat rather than crawl up. In my next piece, I will further take that into account when sewing by adding a little bit extra into most of the seam allowances.

I tried this on with my jeans (and matching socks) to see how the fabric would react against clothing that might push back (like Jeans are wont to do with manipulative knits).  Even with the extra wrinkles from the smaller sizing at the hips, I though it stayed in place quite well. That's rather impressive because usually knits hang up and drape across my bum.  
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The Titan and flexcite hug the body beautifully. This top is extremely comfortable. With the exception of the double layer of powernet I added, I hardly know I'm wearing anything.  I'm really excited to get out on the dance floor and move and sweat to see how it performs. 
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Here is my muslin (left) and finished piece (right).  Notice how the side seams on the muslin look softer, whereas the side seams on the Titan (right) don't wander about but tend to stay straight? Neither piece has been hemmed. Those straight seams are also indicative of Titan's tendency to retain it's shape. That's important to know, because it means Titan could be extremely useful for sculpting garments with.  When sewing with Titan, in addition to the typical leggings or knit tops, consider pieces or elements such as: 
  • Tailored and semi-fitted athletic jackets 
  • Skirts with a stand-out ruffle
  • Stand-up cuffs or collars
  • A fun alternative to scuba knits where you want just a little more drape than a scuba can offer.
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In my muslin, the sweetheart neckline ran way too low, below my bust point. That felt odd to me. So, I arc'd the line higher and ran the V deeper. This is a completely different look. That was fun to experiment with. Now I have 2 more yolk necklines to play with on this top, both of these were hand drafted by me. 
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I was recently on a business trip to Kansas City, Missouri, a wonderful city that holds a special place in my heart from a short period when I lived there.  I met up with a dance friend and we went to a local Salsa dance class.  Of course, since this top was fresh off my machine, I had to bring it and wear it. Super comfy. Plus, look how perfectly it goes with my new Jalie 2795 hoodie?! More on that soon!
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Even when a portion of the fabric is stretched, notice how the rest of the fabric remains straight at the side seams? This says "I'm a fabric to sculpt with" to me!  Exciting!
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Here's a close up of the yolk attachment to the bodice at the center front. Flexcite covers the powernet even in the yolk. Thanks to Madalynne, I invested in some Temporary Spray Adhesive, which reduced my sewing time by nearly 30%! That's significant!  I was so excited by how well it worked and how quickly it stopped working. Now, Joann doesn't carry this in stores, except online. Who else would carry it...? A QUILT SHOP!!  Thank goodness for great local stores like The Quilt Barn, I was able to get it the same night I needed it and keep making progress on my top.  You gals rock!
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Since I ditched all the built-in sports bras from each of the 4 patterns I was using to make this one top, and went with a 1940's slip with princess seams instead, I thought you'd appreciate seeing how I pulled off princess seams in just the bra, but not in the yolk. Even with: 
  • 5 layers at the under bust
  • 4 layers at yolk to bodice
  • 6 layers at the armscye
I still only broke 1 needle. That's like, amazing!  From this, I deduce that powernet is much more "open" to being sewn in layers than multiple layers of  Titan or Flexcite. Those wee holes definitely assist in the matter. 

I am just in LOVE with this top.  

What are your thoughts about large scale prints??  How would you have used this differently?  Have you ever worked with  Titan fabric before? 
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Except for sources otherwise stated beneath images or bottom of the page (Creative Commons), all images and works are copyright Gwen Gyldenege, all rights reserved.  Contact Gwen to request permission.
Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now