Sponsored: Creating a Muslin for a Dancewear Top in Large Scale Print

Now that I've completed the drafting, it's time to cut out a muslin to test the fit. Because, no matter how good I am at drafting or re-using an existing pattern, there are likely some fine tuning adjustment to be done on fit.  

I bought this beautiful swimsuit nylon lycra from an online vendor.  The print is what drew me in.  Though, when it arrived, I was shocked. Not only was it flimsy, it's SEE THROUGH. Like not just a little. I would categorize it as a shear. And, I was a bit shocked that it was categorized as swimwear.

There are many "swimwear" knits I have seen in local fabric shops which are the same quality. Typically, I pass them by. No matter how much lining is used, it is never enough to cover the important parts. And, they often feel like they will snag on a callused hand. I don't want to spend a lot of time sewing a garment only to have its fabric ruin at some random catch I make on a rough edged doorway - yes, sound odd, but sometimes theses inanimate object jump out and BITE me.  
So, while it is gorgous and dreamy, It immediately was religated to muslins and testing only.  That works fine because I need to compare how a BIG print will look on my body for just the bodice. Overall, it's a win. 

I recently invested in an 18mm Olfa rotary cutter. Oh my goodness this was such a great thing. It helped with tiny curves, sharp corners, and allowed me to make more accurate "notch" points, though I actually cut the triangle shapes out rather than cutting into any of my seam allowance.  Bravo Bella introduced me to the idea that notching weakens the fabric, so I've made an effort not to notch into my fabrics since. 

My bust line requires a infrastructure support. Thus, I choose to include powernet in all my yolks. When I made the XYT top, I discovered quite a gap that is created when I wear it. The design is meant to only have the shelf bra attach at the sides. This is perfectly fine for a smaller bust, or even a self supporting bust. Mine, is not. Mine learned the "lay down" trick without needing any doggy biscuits. Bwa ha ha!  

Thanks to the XYT, and subsequent Shelf Bra Cami's, I discovered how much I really like the feeling of complete support around my body and lifting in the straps. When I put Powernet in front/back yolks as well as in the shelf bra, I feel completely supported, snug, and ready to tackle the world. For me, yolks or straps in a sporty top without powernet are like cookies without the butter, cereal without the milk, soup without the broth. For my body type and shape, they just belong together. 

I also choose to sew the fashion fabric to the powernet. Takes a bit of time, but it's great not having to rip out stitching because a fabric slipped. 

I'm really pleased with the way this is coming together. My muslin may work out to be wearable. And, removing the darts and opting for ruching at the bust side seams may too end up producing a whole new look that I love. I'm intrigued to see how the shelf bra and the center back seam work themselves out.  

There may also be hope - if the main fabric and lining were as see through as the main fabric alone, we'd be seeing my cutting table grid appear through the fabric in the photo. There may be hope yet.