When Kelly Hogaboom asked me to test sew a garment for her Tea & Crumpet Dress sew along, I jumped at the chance. I had several challenges along the way, but ultimately, am super pleased with the results of the dress. I will definitely be making it again!
The Sketches
Dedicated to my 2016 goal of sketching each make, below are the sketches I did for Tea & Crumpet version 3. My paper and pen didn't set well with one another so my dots smeared, but I kind of like the effect.
This is the Bootstrap Fashion illustration for the dress pattern I made.
Before I got started, I spent quite a bit of time measuring the pattern, talking with bootstrap and Kelly. Something was off and not quite right. I just couldn't get the hip measurment to be right. Turns out, there are 2, yes TWO, back panels, not one. There you go, another 7 inches! Voila, it would fit around my hips.
When inserting my measurements, I chose the following adjustments:
When inserting my measurements, I chose the following adjustments:
- Full Bust
- Larger Upper Arm Fullness
- Belly Protrusion C
- Narrow Shoulders
- Fitted Garment Fit
- Short Neck Length
The Muslin
For many, this is a no-no. I made my muslin in a woven and my final in a non-recovering knit. For me, I knew I could make it work.
In looking at how this fits
In looking at how this fits
- Full bust was a GREAT choice.
- Large Upper Arm Fullness resulted in bra showing and a little gaping around the side seams. I ended up taking in a dart at the side seams and it worked out perfectly!
- Belly Protrusion C is too much for my taste. I don't care for how it hangs in the front there. I can tell by how it hangs that there is a void space. It hangs nicely, but wrinkles and bothers me when I sit or walk. Personal preference. I'd try B in the next version. Though the dart made for the gaping at the armhole actually helped fix some of the excess at the belly.
- In the "fitted" version, I'm really glad I didn't choose any larger amount of ease like semi-fitted.
- Neck length didn't really matter.
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The Construction
I chose this beautiful polka dot cotton knit from Marcy Tilton that I have in my stash from last year. It has less stretch than I anticipated when I ordered. So, when this Tea & Crumpet dress came along in a drapey woven, I knew it would be the perfect in-between.
I used the awesome marking pen I got from Monica at Sew Expo to mark my darts. Gosh that makes it super easy to work with!
I used the awesome marking pen I got from Monica at Sew Expo to mark my darts. Gosh that makes it super easy to work with!
Just look at how perfectly I was able to line up the back darts and back princess seams of the skirt! So delightful! Can I tell you how amazingly wonderful it was to tape the pattern together, then get right to sewing? Really very minimal alterations. This has really been inspiring to get back to more sewing!
I cut out the fitted version with seam allowances. I ended up with the following further alterations:
I cut out the fitted version with seam allowances. I ended up with the following further alterations:
- Center back at a 1/2" seam allowance (instead of the 3/8" allowed)
- Side seams at 1" seam allowance (instead of 3/8" allowed)
And, sometimes I get reminded to take a pause and love on my fur babies. Though, it's a bit maddening when this one's tail wafts in and out of my serger threads at the top of the cones! Grr! She just wants attention though.
Once I finally read the manual for my serger and learned the "right" way to thread it, it worked like a dream. See that garbage mess on the right? Yeah, that's because I didn't thread the needles last. When in doubt, read the damn manual.
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Hmm... I could leave it raw at the edge... but why?
I chose a finish with 2 needles of plain poly thread and the upper and lower looper filled with wooly nylon. This was used on both the hem and the sleeves. If you choose to do this, wait until you grade and topstitch all skirt seams.
The Finished Dress
I finished the dress just in time to wear it for Easter. When I mean just in time, I do mean that. Like 30 min before. It was great! I got to sew on Easter and wear my dress.
My brother was nice enough to take my photos. He also was super silly and gave me all sorts of strange commands for posing. It was fun!
Here's the dress with a fitted cardigan and a triangle scarf. I love the look. Surprising because I'm not really a white fabric kind of person.
My brother was nice enough to take my photos. He also was super silly and gave me all sorts of strange commands for posing. It was fun!
Here's the dress with a fitted cardigan and a triangle scarf. I love the look. Surprising because I'm not really a white fabric kind of person.
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Did I tell you how happy I am with the dress?
Just LOOK at how smooth that back is! Narry a wrinkle that is out of place dragging hither to thither.
The bust darts might be a titch too high, but they work out just right. Though, with the facing, my neckline appears to have stretched out either during sewing or ... ? Minor in the grand scheme.
I've since invested in 4 or 5 other bootstrap patterns. I'm learning so much about my own body and patterns that fit me. Plus, I get to just dig right in and make some things that will more than likely fit straight away. It's unheard of for me to not have to make significant alterations to a pattern before starting. Usually that part of the process seems to take ages or multiple versions. So color me tickled pink about all things bootstrap! I'm like super excited and keep dreaming of making the Vado Jeans and this babydoll top is about 1/2 way sewn.
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I will most definitely be making more of this dress. I'm excited to learn about baby hems and other beautiful finishing techniques on fine fabrics from Kelly during her Sew Along. Please join us! It'll be a ton of fun and you'll end up with a GREAT garment with plenty of help.
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