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Wardrobe Architect: (Wk 3) Shapes, or What Amount of Ease and Fitting Do I Naturally Gravitate Towards?

9/5/2014

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Ah shapes... likes, dislikes... we all have a certain silhouette we love, don't we? For the 3rd week in the series, the Coletterie has another worksheet for us in the Wardrobe Architect. Rate ease (fitted to loose) by type of garment (tops, dresses, skirts, pants).  What I find interesting is that I am attracted to some loose fitting garments on others, but on myself, I feel all sixes and sevens, quite at odds with myself and very uncomfortable.

The worksheet unveiled that, yet again, I feel at home in negative ease, zero ease, fitted or occasionally a semi-fitted garment (such as a skirt or skirt of a dress) which allow freedom of movement (play time!). Athletic styling and fitting.  

As a test to compare the answers from my intuition with what a really wear, I went through photos from 2013 and got out all the silly selfies I take that make me giggle. I don't usually share them because I want to put more attention on the flora and skies I love than on myself.  

Know that as I am sharing a LOT of photos of myself throughout the wardrobe architect series and especially so in this post, this is done in the spirit of seeing my clothing in action and to analyze it's purpose and my daily, instinctual style choices.  I am processing my choices as we progress through this post and telling my "peanut gallery" to take a hike so I honor my casual nature instead of criticizing it.
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EASE and COMFORT
Above Left. Jeans and T-shirts are my choice almost daily.  A good jean jacket is always a fun piece. I like this cropped one on the left I picked up at Nordstrom in the Plus Sized section.   Even while volunteering to pick up trash on the shoreline, cuffs rolled up, I found it very comfortable. As you can see, chacos are a very versatile shoe choice.

Above Right. In a sewing class, as I was in Jan Bones Dress Form class, comfort is paramount. I want to focus on what the teacher is saying and how I can best learn.  I do not want to waste any mental energy or movement on pulling, tugging or adjusting my clothing. 

The purple T-shirt is one of my favorites.  The sleeves are fitted enough, I don't feel that the fit around the waist and hips is perfect, but I'm also glad it's not so fitted you see my belly shape.  Wearing this, I have felt this was my best fit. Seeing it in photographs, I don't think it is such a great fit.  The blue shirt above left fits better in the hip/waist area.  This is interesting to see.  This is an area I'm working on in Dyanne Marte's Sew Knits that Fit class.
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EASE FOR WET OR COLD WEATHER and NECKLINES
Above Left. One must always be prepared for cold, damp weather in the Pacific NW. I usually wear many layers - T-shirt, fleece, windblock jacket, and one of my own handspun/handknit hats or gloves. I was soaked from the walk I took in the rain, but warm enough so I am happy.  All pieces, thought you can't see below my shoulders, are fitted to semi-fitted. Not much ease. Because the more ease, the more you have a heavy, wet draped garment clinging to you.  

Above Right. There are times when I like a loose (to me that means semi fitted), top and to wear a pretty flower in my hair.  I like most necklines except I don't like to show off my cleavage, nor do I like U-shapes.  If a neckline is too low, I'm self consious the entire time I'm wearing it.  I'd much rather wear a higher neckline and feel free to bend over or lean down without the concern that someone can see all the way to down to my toenails.  I want to run, and jump, and stretch freely and have my clothing stay in place as I need it.  I like my modesty. 
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EASE AND TRANSITIONS FROM WORK TO PLAY
Above Left. Must be able to go from work to skating in 3 seconds. I keep a purse that I can comfortably wear while skating and wear clothes that do double duty. Again, simple, fitted silhouettes.  Though, once the hat is on, I've hat hair the rest of the day.

Above Right. Capris and Running Shoes. Those capris are semi fitted. They stretch and have ~ 4" of ease. They are the loosest I own. I like them because they convert from long pants to capris and have cute ruching. 
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CONVERTABLE CLOTHING AND NEGATIVE EASE 
Above Left. Over and over again I see where I will wear jeans then roll them up to be capris if it's hot.  I love wearing fitted/semi fitted jeans that allow me to run and play with my friends kids or jump in the water / sprinkler without fussing. 

Above Right. Fitted and negative ease. When I walk, skate, do yoga, I want my pants negative ease so they are like a second skin.  I like my shirts typically to fit with zero ease.  That way I don't show off too much.
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POSITIVE EASE AND SKIRTS
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For as much as I love fitted and negative ease I love a good semi-fitted skirt with big ol pockets! 


Most of the time, I like more ease in my skirts - A-line and more.  In the skirt above, I wore bike shorts beneath and then climbed trees, logs, over rocks and all along a wild and untamed beach.  Plenty of room to move without getting caught on any branches or tearing the skirt. 


Frankly I was shocked I could do so much in it, but the ease, length & bike shorts made it possible. 

As much as I like a loose skirt, I don't want it too loose.  I tend to feel at odds with circle skirts. They are so voluminous.  I find myself thinking, "I could drown in this and no one would find me" or constantly checking to that I'm not caught in a door (hey, it's happened), while wearing them.  Isn't that funny?
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Yes, those tan pants in the upper left photo are the same as the ruched capris I talked about above. Yes I fell. Yes I skinned my knee. Yes, I was hella bruised. I had quite a recovery and rest (several weeks or more) period.  I still have the capris and want to do a fun knee patch.  Anyone patched a knee on stretch cotton sateen?
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NEGATIVE EASE FOR HIKING AND POSITIVE EASE FOR WOVENS
Above Left. When hiking, I choose to wear very fitted clothing.  This is me being a clown showing the use of the leaves of wildflower, Thimbleberry.  We had just learned that you can use those leaves for TP or tissue. Pretty cool!  Notice that I'm wearing black yoga capris, but a really bright top.  This was before I started making and wearing my own wild printed leggings and capris. 

Above Right. The occasional V-neck and plaid button up dot my wardrobe. I like a slim silhouette, fitted and feminine.  I grew up with the grunge era when Nirvana was a baby, but didn't really adopt it because it feels dirty and unkempt to me.  Because of that, I make sure that my plaids are cheerful and surfer like. And I don't want to look like I'm wearing my Dad's shirt all big and baggy. Probably because I stole his while I was in Jr. High. Been there. Done that. Time to look girly and casual.  To me that means darts, fitted or semi-fitted, cute pockets, neat cuffs that aren't oversized.
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EASE AND YOGA
Above Left: Ah, a repeat top and pant.  The blue top is the same as in my first photo standing in water. Excellent. It works well for multiple activities. Has a slim, semi fitted silhouette.  The yoga pants are the same fitted (negative ease) as shown in my Nature's TP photo above. I've discovered that having too loose a top while doing downward dog means that I'll be wearing it as a necklace. Not so classy when in a yoga class. 
KNEE & CAPRI LENGTH
I'm noticing that I really like my ankles and shins to be free to "catch the breeze" be it in pants or skirts. I don't choose blousy, long, flared and drapy things like maxi skirts or palazzo pants because ... I TRIP or DIP!  Yes, wearing long clothes brings out the clown in me who trips upstairs and down. I trip turning, I stumble. I prefer to stay upright unless I'm purposfully entertianing an audience.  I've fallen enough skating and rock climbing to last a lifetime. Why introduce more trip hazards into my life? 

3/4 SLEEVES OR SHORTER
I like short sleeve or sleevless tops. Long, drapey sleeves mean dipping them in food, water, or getting them dirty without me knowing. Tighten it up, shorten hems and sleeve lengths and I stay cleaner, looking better. 

Exceptions to both will be during colder months.
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In conclusion, my choices in semi-fitted, slim, zero and negative ease along with shorter hemlines and sleeve lengths all align with my athletic pursuits and lifestyle.  They allow me to maintain freedom of movement and focus on the task at hand, not on fussy clothing. 

What's really interesting is that I've avoided slim, zero, and negative ease when looking at most size charts or RTW.  Why? because this meant it wouldn't fit me because I was usually off the size chart or the RTW block was not as pear+hourglass shaped as me.  Ah yes, I really do like things to fit snugly, I just need to make them myself in order to achieve proper fit.
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    Gwen Gyldenege

    Author: 
    Gwen Gyldenege

    I'm a one woman circus.  
    I'm curvy and athletic.
    ​I am a dancer.
    My last name translates 
    to "Golden Oak". 

    I'm an artist, intuitive, engineer, seamstress 
    and performer.

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Photos used under Creative Commons from I Robertson, DoNotLick, Gustty, Jayson Emery, Nbepko, Gamma Man, I Robertson, Lars Plougmann, RowdyKittens, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, The Wandering Angel, VasenkaPhotography, quinn.anya, Léa Chvrl, Lost Albatross, Guttorm Flatabø, BEST PHOTO, RowdyKittens, allistair, BozDoz, tanakawho, Navicore, Bilal Kamoon, D-Stanley, Kris Krug, glasseyes view, essers, Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious, Alex Pepperhill, Found Animals, adactio, Office Now